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  A letter from Doug Dicks in Palestine and Israel  
             
 

April 1999

Dear Family and Friends,

Dust was flying in the streets of Bethlehem when I returned in early September from my summer itineration abroad. This little town on the edge of the Judean Desert is readying itself to play host to the world! Major infrastructure changes were needed, as Bethlehem was largely neglected during the 27 years of Israeli occupation. Water pipes, sewage lines, telephone and electrical cables are all being replaced and buried. New street lights, a gift from the government of Norway, now line Manger Street. Roads have been completely excavated and freshly asphalted. The task has been an overwhelming one, and clearly not everything will be ready by January 1, 2000. Nonetheless, the city of Bethlehem, with financial help from around the globe, will put its best foot forward when the world arrives to celebrate the 2000th anniversary of the birth of the Prince of Peace next year.

The signing of the Wye River memorandum in late October brought fresh hopes that the stalemate in the "peace process" might finally end. The signature of Prime Minister Benyamin Netanyahu to the memorandum, so it seemed, would put to rest once and for all the underlying argument made by his right-wing Likud government that it did not have to implement any agreement that the previous Labour government had signed. Once again, hope was rekindled that a long-overdue understanding would actually be reached by both Palestinians and Israelis at Wye River. Once again, those same hopes were soon dashed when, only weeks after returning to Israel, Netanyahu announced that Israel would not fulfill any of its commitments under the agreement until the Palestinians fulfilled theirs. And finally, the United States, which still claims to be the "even-handed" broker throughout these agreements, again proved powerless, if not unwilling, to persuade Israel that it was in the best interest of regional peace to implement the agreed-upon troop withdrawals from additional areas of the West Bank.

With much fanfare, Gaza International Airport opened on November 24, and Palestinians felt elated that this historic event, which opens Gaza to the world, might somehow be the first step towards a free and independent Palestine. However, since the opening of Gaza International, Israel has used the pretext of its own state security in determining who can fly out of Gaza using the new terminal. It appears as though even Palestinians wishing to leave the Middle East pose a potential security threat to Israel!

Despite Israeli dissatisfaction, President Clinton made a historic visit to the region in mid-December, fulfilling his commitment as part of the Wye River understanding to visit the Palestinian Autonomous Areas of both Gaza and Bethlehem. In Gaza, Clinton attended a special session of the Palestine National Council, and witnessed first-hand the nullification of clauses in the Palestinian Liberation Organization's charter—clauses which advocated the destruction of the state of Israel.

On December 15, I stood with hundreds of Palestinians in Manger Square, anxiously awaiting the arrival of the Clintons in Bethlehem. Earlier that morning, I watched from my apartment window as helicopters, and not angels, hovered over the Shepherd's Fields, and hurried to Manger Square to take my place amongst the throngs of people hoping to catch a glimpse of the First Family. Posters that read, "Bill Clinton, Welcome to Palestine" and "We Have a Dream—the Same as Yours" appeared in shop windows only days before the Clintons' arrival. The Clintons did finally arrive in Bethlehem, and after a brief tour of the Church of the Nativity, they hung a few ornaments on a tree that had been placed near the church for the occasion. A Palestinian choir from Beir Sahour, the town of the shepherds, sang for them. In an instant they were gone, hurrying off to catch helicopters for their flight out over the desert to the mountain of Masada.

Within days of departing Bethlehem, the United States and Britain bombed Iraq, and the Palestinian people felt both betrayed and bewildered. American flags that had once flown proudly along the route to Manger Square were ripped down and burned in angry protests. "How is it," they asked, "that Clinton could come to Bethlehem so close to Christmas and speak of peace, only to return home and issue bombing orders against the already long-suffering people of Iraq?" Indeed, it seemed to me that the spirit of "peace on earth, goodwill to all" had been torn from underneath us so suddenly—that there was little cause for revelry in spite of the season.

Christmas came in quietly as the year 1998 drew to a close. So many of my Palestinian friends and neighbors felt that there was little reason to celebrate, but Christmas came just the same. I attended the usual services in Bethlehem, including an Anglican carol service presided over by His grace Bishop Riah Abu el-Assal, and attended by President Yasser Arafat. Following midnight mass at St. Catherine's, I made my way back through the quiet streets of Bethlehem towards home. Christmas had dawned in my part of the world, and as I walked along, gazing up into the star-filled night sky, I could not help but be humbled by the thought that it was into such a broken and restless world not unlike our own, silently, miraculously, hope was born one night as this some two thousand years ago.

In Peace,

Douglas Dicks

 
             
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