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  A letter from Susan Ellison in Bolivia
 
             
 

September 2002

"Caminante, no hay camino. Se hace camino al andar."

"Walker, there is no path. You make the path by walking."

—Antonio Machado

Dear Friends,

Until a few months ago, I didn’t fully understand the depths of many Bolivians mistrust of North Americans. Ely Lopez, a member of the Joining Hands network, and I were eating together. She paused, looked up from her plate of pique macho and confessed, "You know, until I knew you and Hunter Farrell [mission co-worker in Peru] I did not trust Americans. I could not trust Americans. But I’m glad you are here."

In that moment I felt both pleased and minuscule. I had begun, at least, to earn Ely’s trust and maybe to breakdown some barriers. But oh! How much remained!

 
             
 

Photograph of Felix, a member of the Andean Oral History Workshop, as he presents Brad Hestir of San Francisco with a Wipala flag, symbolizing diversity
Felix, a member of the Andean Oral History Workshop, presents Brad Hestir of San Francisco with a Wipala flag, symbolizing diversity

Members of the Presbytery of San Francisco visit the community of Conchamarca with the Evangelical Methodist Church
Members of the Presbytery of San Francisco visit the community of Conchamarca with the Evangelical Methodist Church

 

How much remains.

Then, a few weeks ago, three members of the Presbytery of San Francisco traveled to Bolivia. Brad, Jean, and Del were here to attend a workshop on North-South economic relations, debt, and the Free Trade in the Americas (FTAA) agreement being pushed in the region by the United States (also known as "NAFTA for the Americas"), among other themes. But they were also trying to build a relationship between the Bolivian Joining Hands Network and the solidarity network that is based in the Presbytery of San Francisco.

 
             
 

We knew we were building trust when one person at the workshop said "I apologize for this question, but I really have to ask. We have had so many bad experiences with North Americans. How can we trust this isn’t just another form of colonialism?" Brad, Jean, and Del handled it beautifully. As Jean said later, "I saw the same question spread across everyone’s face. How can we trust when we’ve been hurt again and again before?"

The Aymara man who spoke, Felix, was clearly giving voice to what many people feared to ask. And it wasn’t an attempt to hurt. This is a group of people who are taking a real risk in trusting us North Americans. As Jean noted, they have been hurt again and again. Joining Hands is very much an adventure in building trust. It’s an adventure because we have no way of knowing how it will evolve. But both sides have agreed to take that risk, take that leap of faith. As Jean told the group, "There is nothing we can do to prove to you our intentions. We can only ask that you give us a small amount of trust. Enough to begin."

I feel so privileged—and so inadequate—to be witnessing these nervous steps toward each other, to be the person trying to stand between until both worlds draw close enough together so I can step back and let the relationship move on its own. Yet I am not the perfect bridge, because I am also, by virtue of color and citizenship, one who is not to be fully trusted. And I don’t know in the end if I will have been worthy of Bolivians’ trust. My biggest fear, a huge looming fear that sometimes creeps in and then runs on a massive, never-ending treadmill in my head at night, is that I will fail this group, that I will break their trust, that I will add to the countless lists of Northerners who have violated that trust and only validated why people didn’t trust in the first place.

But I also know I can only do my best, be as open, as genuine, and, as they say here, as "transparent" as I can be. We are just beginning.

In other news, one my closest Aymara friends, Rina, has just graduated from San Andres Mayor University with a degree in agronomy. She was the only cholita in the entire graduating class.

Rina graduated de pollera, that is, wearing traditional dress. The term "cholita" refers to an indigenous Aymara woman who still dresses in the full, layered skirts, bowler hat, long black braids, and shawl worn by indigenous women who have moved to the city from the countryside. And yet many women who enter the university feel a great deal of pressure to leave the pollera behind, adopting Western-style dress and trying to downplay their heritage due to ongoing discrimination of indigenous peoples.

Rina is in her early forties and was the only Aymara woman dressed de pollera in the graduating class. She wore her favorite skirt—deep green and moss-colored stripes. After many, many months of struggle to balance work, school, raising her family, and dealing with the low expectations most hold for indigenous women, Rina walked across the stage to the loudest applause and shouts of " bravo!"

There are few indigenous women who have achieved what she has, and yet she is part of something new and exciting for this country. She, like many other Aymara women, is making the path by walking.

Susan Ellison

 
             
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