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  A letter from Susan Ellison in Bolivia  
             
 

December 2002

Dear Friends,

Only weeks after arriving in Bolivia's capital, Nuestra Señora de La Paz, Our Lady of Peace, I found the Coffin Street.

Everything in this city is sorted and sold by streets. Bathroom sinks gather grime for blocks. Tiles, buckets of plaster, pipes. Then, electronics, roped wires, bulbs glaring midday.

And coffins. On this particular street, several coffin shops prop white, angular coffins in their storefronts. Most coffins are baby-size. In one shop, they lean against the painted adobe and concrete walls, stacked upright, spilling into the street, where the owner also sells fresh bread out of a woven basket. Several adult-sized coffins sit in the back of the shop, but the majority are built for an infant, maybe a 2 year-old.

 
             
  Dozens of coffins for infants sit in a coffin shop near La Paz's cemetery.
Dozens of coffins for infants sit in a coffin shop near La Paz's cemetery.
 

Here in Bolivia, they need all those baby coffins. Bolivia's infant mortality rate is 63 in 1,000. That number goes up if you include all children under age five. That's the highest rate in South America, and the second highest in the Western hemisphere (behind Haiti).

But those numbers don't mean much until you know the babies and their families.

 
             
  Miguel and Patti attend my church, Truth and Light Presbyterian, where Miguel's father, Luis Perez, is pastor. In the weeks before their daughter, Rebecca, was born, Patti and Miguel told me that what mattered most was that she be happy and loved. Patti, with her shy smile, would look down at her feet, a little embarrassed by all the attention focused on her and her growing belly. Both Miguel and Patti hoped for a girl. Maybe the baby would become a doctor, a professional. Luis' wish for her was simpler—he wanted the baby to live. Weeks later, when I ran into him on the street, he was nearly bouncing with excitement. His first grandchild had been born.  
             
  Rebecca came a month early, but despite her low birth weight, she and Patti went home the next day. Like most Bolivians, Patti kept Rebecca wrapped tightly, a bundle of soft, pastel blankets, only her tiny face peering out. Miguel often carried the baby against his chest, focusing intently on her face during worship. But Rebecca rarely opened her thin eye lids.   A child's memorial in the La Paz cemetary, where relatives can buy or rent a space to memorialize their loved ones with flowers and other symbols.
A child's memorial in the La Paz cemetery, where relatives can buy or rent a space to memorialize their loved ones with flowers and other symbols.
 
             
 

Patti and Miguel took her to the local clinic for regular checkups, waiting in line with those who gather at 4:00 a.m. in the hope of seeing a doctor that day, but she didn't seem to gain weight or grow.

"They never gave us anything, not vitamins, not formula that would help her grow strong. Nothing," her grandmother, Lourdes, told me. "Women and babies are supposed to get good care, but the laws are a joke. We are humble people; we are poor people. They take one look at us and know we cannot pay."

No doctor ever determined why Rebecca didn't thrive. She was three months old when she died. Though we were months away from the rainy season, it poured all day. In the early hours of the morning, a Sunday, her family took her tiny body to the coroner. He pronounced her dead of malnutrition, despite Patti and Miguel's care. He asked "Didn't you take her to the doctor?" Luis' normally gentle voice rose in anger and frustration over the telephone as he talked about the coroner. They had loved that baby so much, the diagnosis seemed like an insult. But no one was surprised by Rebecca's death. Families hope and pray, but no one assumes a baby will survive here. When I spoke with Luis that day his voice was hollow, exhausted. He had just buried his three-month-old granddaughter. "Miguel and Patti are inconsolable. But I told them they must move on. They are young, they can have more children. They have to think of it that way. How else can they continue?" Luis and Lourdes lost three children themselves. And Rebecca became one of the thousands.

Every day in the Two-Thirds World, in countries like Bolivia, over 30,000 children under the age of 5 die from preventable diseases related to hunger and poverty. Every year, 14 million children worldwide die of hunger (Jubilee 2000/USA). Mostly babies die of wholly preventable diseases that do not require expensive treatment or high-tech equipment. The number one cause of infant death in Bolivia is diarrhea.

Understanding the context in which Rebecca died is complicated, messy. During the 1980s and 1990s, under pressure from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) and World Bank, Third-World countries like Bolivia implemented economic austerity measures that slashed services and subsidies, abruptly liberalizing their economy, and promoting privatization, among other measures. Rather than investing in the welfare of their citizens, many countries were forced to cut spending on services like health and education. The policies that were originally implemented in Bolivia during the 1980s to curb rampant inflation are now criticized for having further concentrated wealth into the hands of a few.

While the Bolivian government is now trying to invest more in health and has reduced the infant mortality rate, it is still astonishingly high. One third of Bolivia's budget goes to paying off the interest on its debt. Not the debt itself, just the interest. Both Bolivia's health and education sectors remain heavily dependent on international aid because the government must devote so much of its budget to paying off debt interest rather than investing in its citizens' needs. In 1995, 88 percent of Bolivia's investment into health came from donations and foreign credit (Instituto del Tercer Mundo).

Bolivia's rampant, institutionalized corruption also prevents money and materials from getting to those who need them most. Did upper-level corruption or mismanaged funds prevent supplies from reaching Rebecca and others entitled to them? Do people who work in the hospital skim off the top because they, too, are trying to survive as Bolivia's economic crisis worsens? What else contributes to making the health care system so profoundly unjust?

The complexity can make the situation seem hopeless, almost not worth tackling. And yet when I asked Luis' permission to tell Rebecca's story, he didn't respond as I expected. When I offered to change names and details to protect their privacy, Luis said "No, you must tell it truthfully. Why hide our names? People need to know."

Knowing that Rebecca's death was preventable, and that thousands of children like her die daily, is maddening. But she is also a powerful reason to keep working.

Susan

 
             
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