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  A letter from Michele and Terry Finseth in Italy  
             
 

April 16, 2005

Papal pandemonium

Dear Friends,

Less than a week ago while helicopters flew incessantly overhead assessing the crowds, a fleet of boats surveyed the river, and 10,000 security, police, and military carefully observed the millions of mourners who had come to Rome to pay final tribute to Pope John Paul II. Water stations, tents and port-a-potties were set up as far as the eye could see, and the line of pilgrims was endless for five days before his funeral. It sometimes spanned two miles, with a wait of 8-12 hours to make a brief pass through the basilica that took less than five minutes.

 
             
  Photograph of several men talking and photographing.
The hive of media activity across from our house.
  And then there was the media, set up like a virtual jungle of scaffolding, generators, satellite dishes, wiring, lights, and other equipment at the Castel Sant’Angelo (just across the river from our house) in a claustrophobic lot the size of a house. It was a hive of non-stop activity, as they reported unfolding details of this historic event. Seeing the numerous broadcasters in action close-up was quite an experience; CNN’s Christiane Amanpour waved from her podium across to MSNBC’s Chris Matthews, who was taking a break, eating with chopsticks while camera lights continued to bear down on him.  
             
 

Further on, yet another reporter spoke into his microphone, decked out in a schizophrenic costume of dress coat, white shirt and tie from the waist up, and jeans with sneakers that would never be seen by viewers! Those who arrived late or work with smaller companies had to squeeze in wherever they could to get their cameras trained on Saint Peter’s Square, some even standing precariously on top of the two-foot wide river wall, to shoot their piece. We came to realize that on-site coverage takes an incredible amount of frenzied preparation, waiting, and filler, and we came away with a newfound appreciation for the behind-the-scenes chaos and drudgery.

Local newspapers began echoing the panicked voices of authorities questioning if Rome could hold up under the weight of such a huge and sudden influx of people, declaring a state of emergency. Every hotel in a 200-mile radius was booked, leaving many to sleep in the streets. This became a reality when we stepped out our front door in the mornings to find people sleeping in doorways, on benches, sidewalks, and in tents on the riverbanks.

Friends who own a restaurant nearby told us they prayed none of their dining regulars would come in because not only did they need the space to feed the masses, but also they couldn’t devote the normally casual and friendly service to which they feel dedicated. They found themselves running out of food, and their suppliers were either also out of food or were unable to deliver due to traffic congestion.

The morning of the funeral we walked outside to take it all in. Traffic had ground to a halt as the city was closed to vehicles. Standing on our corner we saw only emergency vehicles and ten flatbed trucks pass by, nine of which, carried huge loads of bottled water. Diplomats and church leaders (including our friends Pastor Pieter of the Methodist Church and Pastor Willie of the Scottish Presbyterian Church) arrived at a designated site behind the basilica at 6:30 a.m. and began being bused to Saint Peter’s where they found no bathroom facilities available until after the funeral finished at 2:30 p.m.

Living in Rome, less than a mile from Vatican City is, at this moment in time, a truly remarkable experience!

Today presents a diverse, yet still anticipative scene. We hear the helicopters perhaps once a day, the crowds have disbursed for the moment, and merchants, restaurant owners, and civil servants are breathing a sigh of relief as they begin recharging for the next phase of this journey. The media’s lights are down, generators and other equipment stored for the moment, while newscasters turn their attention to other world events. However their scaffolding remains standing along with the satellite dishes, poised and pointed toward Vatican City, where they will soon observe the smokestack of the Sistine Chapel for a white plume of smoke that will mark the ascension to the papacy of a new pontiff.

Sequestered in the newly built quarters of Santa Marta and traveling daily to the Sistine Chapel, which has been closed to the public and swept for any electronic listening devices, 115 cardinals will decide the destiny of one man as the church and world watch and wait. Historically this required a two-thirds-plus-one vote. If the delegation failed to secure one, meals became more and more meager until a decision was reached! Predictions here are that by April 22nd the smoke will burn white.

Dialogue’s direction

Until the conclave begins April 18th, coverage this week remembers the many characteristics for which Papa Giovanni Paolo II will be remembered, as he has been dubbed the Pilgrim Pope, or the Great Pope, as some have called for his immediate sainthood. Meanwhile, reporters speculate who his successor will be and what strengths he will bring to the table. Interestingly, while some cultures feel it improper to immediately speak critically of the deceased, others such as the Jewish tradition eulogize as well as critique, seeing it as authentic mourning. In that vein, both criticism and praise have been awarded to Karol Wojtyla’s position on interfaith dialogue.

It has been reported that the Catholic Church’s relationship to Islam will be high on the cardinals’ list of issues as they deliberate their choice of a new leader. There can be found a broad spectrum of views within this College of Cardinals regarding interfaith dialogue. Some of the cardinals are said to question the danger that Islam’s growth poses (now second in size only to Christianity) and whether dialogue is useful. At the same time acknowledgement is given to the increasing secularization of Europe. Against this backdrop controversy rages within the Catholic Church regarding whether to take a more conciliatory stance toward Islam, as fellow sons of Abraham, or one of greater confrontation in efforts to convert.

Some within the Catholic Church perceive any participation in dialogue as a sign of weakness. Likewise, a move toward integrating Europe’s immigrants, creating a pluralistic society, is seen as furthering secularization. Both stand as stark contrasts to the felt urgency on the part of still others to overcome present methods of dialoguing with only moderates in order to pursue talks with Islamic hard-liners, as they see the change as an urgent necessity if ever there is to be a hope for world peace.

What we see unfold before us in the next weeks will be a telling story. Stay tuned! Many of us might feel we are solely observers of this event, acknowledging that we not only are not Catholic, but we have no voice in the selection of a new pope. But we will be impacted by the selection’s outcome. Just as many in Europe wanted wished for a vote in the U.S. presidential election because of its tremendous impact on Europe (and the world). As the Catholic Church membership waits in the wings to embrace its new pontiff, the rest of the world will also be watching to see what direction the church at large will take after this change. We are all participants as God speaks to us through other believers, and as we seek to intercede for the church universal.

Let us pray for the whole people of God according to their needs during this current transitional period of papal pandemonium. May it open the doors of peace for God’s people of every nation.

Grace and Peace,

Terry and Michele

The 2005 Mission Yearbook for Prayer & Study, p. 183

 
             
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