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  A letter from Charlotte Gott in Malawi  
             
 

October 4, 2004

Dear Friends,

For four weeks in September, I was in Ekwendeni in the far north of Malawi, participating in my long-awaited nursing orientation. I got to know PC(USA) missionaries Jodi and Jim McGill, and the Reverend Debbie Chase, as well as a group of Irish, Canadian, Scottish and Malawian Presbyterians. My Irish neighbors, Helen and Robin Quinn, were instrumental in including me in “wee” walks (resulting in shin splints), frequent teas, Bible studies on Wednesdays, a trip to Lake Malawi, and an especially memorable evening when we were serenaded by a group of 20-something Malawians, and we did line dances to music by South African artist, Brenda Fassie. I stayed in a 100-year-old house with more mosquitoes on the inside than the outside, with the usual erratic water and power, and a courtyard which was frequented by the neighbor-women cooking meals over a fire. I got to know some of the local children who lived behind me when I contributed to their collection of little treasures (plastic milk bottles, broken jewelry, and pottery) displayed in the crannies of the brick wall next to my house. With 17 young children giggling loudly as they crawled underneath the “fort” I built from two chairs and blankets on my front porch, I discovered play has no language barriers.

 
             
 

"After seeing too many women suffering from inoperable cervical cancer because no one ever bothered to examine them, it is time to try to prevent this disease."

  I did my best to make my orientation meaningful. In addition to spending time in various departments, I went out often with the mobile clinics to participate in the under-5 clinics for children. Many of these clinics included original drama and singing to educate women about safe childbirth practices. I took whatever opportunity I could to discuss women’s healthcare with clinical officers and with Dr. Douglas Lungu, the medical director at Ekwendeni. After spending time at Mulanje and Ekwendeni, I have become convinced that not only is women’s healthcare greatly lacking in Malawi, but what is needed is more of the will to do it, than a way.  
             
 

There is certainly a focus on prenatal care, but otherwise, women often get neglected. Indeed, Malawi lacks resources, including basic medicines, which run out quickly, but as Dr. Lungu said, what we need to do is change the way people think. Women may be the “root of the family,” as one clinical officer expressed, but there needs to be more interest in cultivating that root.

Now at Mulanje Dr. Sue Makin and I and a visiting OBGYN are on a campaign trying to encourage the use of speculums in examining women. After seeing too many women suffering from inoperable cervical cancer because no one ever bothered to examine them, it is time to try to prevent this disease. We are also trying to teach the medical assistants and the nursing students how to do the simple procedure of applying vinegar to the cervix and observing if any areas whiten up, indicating a possible precancerous lesion. I feel, also, that if a provider takes the time to do a speculum exam, he or she has added one more step to the thinking process, hopefully making a more thoughtful diagnosis.

Seven months into my time, I am less surprised by the way life and death walk so closely together here than when I first arrived. On our way home Saturday evening, Sue and I encountered a minibus that had hit a train. Minibuses are the main mode of transport for people and the drivers are notorious for driving recklessly. There is no 911 here, no emergency equipment, and so the locals themselves were prying the front of the smashed minibus open to rescue people. Sue and I took two of the wounded to the hospital. It seems to be just another day to have a pregnant mother dying of cryptococcal meningitis—should we attempt to rescue her 32-week baby by a C-section that the mother and baby might not survive? Should we wait? A woman brought in a bundled-up baby and when I put my stethoscope to his chest, I felt confused by his warmth. There was no heartbeat. Our days at the hospital are often marked by the sound of wailing from a ward that acknowledges the mourning of another loss.

Change comes slowly here. One of my frustrations was that the clinical staff hesitated to say the words “HIV positive” out loud in our morning report. They used euphemisms like “ARC” or “immunosuppression” or the issue was ignored completely. The stigma associated with HIV is so big that the clinicians had difficulty surmounting it. Now, I hear them saying the words, even staging the patients according to the World Health Organization guidelines. One of the staff confided to me that my insistence that we be more open about HIV finally convinced him to approach his sister about being tested. HIV positive, she is about to start treatment.

Mtendere (peace),

Charlotte

 
             
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