| May 2003
Mel's Musings: "The Pilgrimage"
Just wanted to let you know a few of the things that have been
happening in our lives so far this year. In fact we have been
leading a very quiet life.
In February it was fairly cold, with several snowy days, which
were fun. We had bought a small truckload of wood from a carpenter's
shop in November, so were well stocked. We lived in the one warm
room, so we did not suffer as much as our first year here.
Then in March the sun became stronger and the mountains stood
up gloriously against a clear blue sky. One Sunday we went on
a hike and got completely lost down a steep hillside covered in
dense forest. The path disappeared. We sent Kelli on as a scout
as we all said we did not want to go back up the very steep path
we came down, but she could find no way ahead. So we turned round,
and climbed back up. I thought climbing up a dry streambed would
be easier than fighting branches, but after a few hundred yards
of fighting loose rocks, the streambed turned into a cliff face.
Again retreat.
Then there was the big trip, "pilgrimage,” to Yamnotri
in mid-March. This is thanks to Peter and Carolyn visiting from
Guildford. We could not go on other Lonely Planet famous treks
because of the recent snow. So we (no Tim or Hilary this time)
headed off to Yamnotri, assured that there would be shops with
drinking water, food, and snacks. We did not even take our sleeping
bag, as it is such a well-equipped trekking route.
We left in a taxi at 8:00 a.m. and drove past Kempty Falls and
the Yamona River bridge back into the hills that we look at daily.
The taxi drove very slowly and the five-hour drive became six.
We reached Hanuman Chetti at about 2:00 p.m. and asked for some
food in the only "tea shop.” It began to snow very
slightly. We huddled into the shop where we watched our chapatis
being made, The walls were wallpapered with election posters.
The town was like a ghost town, boarded up shops, and lots of
litter, everyone just standing around. Historically it had been
the end of the road, but we were assured that now the road went
on to Janek Chetti and as it was snowing and after 3:00 p.m. we
got back in the ambassador taxi to drive further on our pilgrimage.
Forty minutes of breath-holding drive on a road/track carved into
the hillside, we arrived at our "basecamp." We seemed
to be the first people to arrive there this year. Nothing was
open. Scott and Peter persuaded someone to open up a room for
us. It had about 20 wooden beds! We put several thin cotton mattresses
on top of each other, chose a pillow that looked the least grubby
and then a few quilts on top (handmade cotton not really different
from the mattresses). As we were not taking off much clothing
to sleep in, it did not matter that things were not very clean.
We felt very ethnic. I had brought my hot water bottle (ethnicity
has its limits) and asked for hot water after we were fed our
supper. I got some warm water but even that helped my feet warm
a little in bed. This was, after all, a pilgrimage and one is
supposed to suffer. The next day bright and early we were off
for the high and famous Yamnotri temple where there are hot springs
and "babus” that live in the ashram and give blessings
to the pilgrims that come.
The path soon became snow covered in patches of shadow. In many
places we walked on a narrow ledge cut out of the rock face. Seeing
the edge was important and the snow hid this edge in many places.
As the day went on the crisp snow melted, and my feet got wetter
and wetter. But up we went, it was a glorious ravine, on one side
a steep drop to roaring river, and on the other side a rise to
snowy peaks, so close! It took about two and a half hours to climb
up. We only passed two people who were returning, a French man
and an Indian carrying a small generator down for repairs. The
path is packed in the summer. Those that cannot walk, we were
told, get donkeys to carry them. But if they are too big they
can be carried in a "dandy" by four porters for about
$100.
The snow got deeper and deeper. By the time we saw Yamnotri we
were walking on a meter of snow. I am afraid the cold dampened
the magic of the place for us. Still, the scenery was awesome.
We made it up and back down by mid-afternoon. I craved some sun
to warm my feet and dry my socks. We gathered some twigs for a
fire but it did not work well, mostly smoke.
The next day we walked down to Hanaman Chettri arriving about
10 a.m. No eggs for breakfast, last one had just gone.
We drove back on Holi, not a good day to drive. We were stopped
in a few villages by boys blocking the road, throwing colour,
and demanding money. The driver got dye on his shirt, and started
driving faster. There was nowhere to stop and eat, all was shut
tightly up. In one town there twenty young men rocked our car
and rubbed handfulls of red colour on the driver's shirt. When
they let us go we did not realise someone was still on the roof.
We stopped about a mile down the road to let him off.
We ate at 3:00 p.m., as suffering pilgrims, and arrived home
about 5:00 p.m. We all felt very well blessed to be safely home.
My own bed never felt better.
Melanie
The 2003 Mission Yearbook for Prayer & Study, page
160
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