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  A letter from Bruce and Lora Whearty in Vanuatu  
             
 

25 March 2003

Letter 10

Hello, everyone!

We are connected with the larger world again! The back-up generator got fixed more quickly than we had hoped, and we have lights back on in the evenings now. We can also keep the computer charged, and start catching up on the backlog of correspondence. We only have power for about three hours in the evenings, so the fridge is still not working well, but we are grateful for the lights.

I owe Kinsey a public apology. Back in letter 8 I said that I thought that her skin infections were caused by not washing carefully enough. OK, this month was my turn. I got an oozy, crusty, itchy, burny, nasty, rashy thing along the back of my head. It was hard to heal because I sweat a lot, there where the hair is thick. (Former students, please take note: thick and lush!) Emily was kind enough to point out that I didn't have any sores on the top of my head and that if I would wait "a few days," I would be bald enough that this problem would just go away. The case of sores is responding well to lotion and antibiotics, and I am looking forward to being able to sleep with my head touching a pillow again.

 
             
 

I think that the Pacific has a broader view of the United States at war than we do ourselves. They know very well how heroic we can be, since they have not forgotten that it was the United States that saved Vanuatu from slavery in World War II."

  We went to Siviri Village a couple of weeks ago for a retirement celebration for Elder Arthur, a friend of ours from ten years ago. Arthur has been chief of Siviri since 1935, when he was 12 years old. He gave a small speech, and a group of villagers sang a song, and then the ceremony to induct the new chief began. Arthur's son Peter and five assistant chiefs were dressed traditionally in dried leaf costumes. They were “called” by the blowing of a trumpet shell and were led into the center of the village, where they sat on mats on the ground. Behind each of them was a pile of gifts, mostly woven mats and traditional foods such as taro and sugar cane, but also including a tied, live pig for each of them. Peter was led to the center of the village and seated on a special traditional rock, unburied for this occasion. Visiting chiefs from neighboring villages then read out a history of the names that Peter and his assistants would now inherit.  
             
 

Peter was then installed as chief by the other chiefs laying their hands on his head. He then clubbed the largest pig to death, installed each of his assistants by calling out their new chiefly names, and drank a coconut shell of kava, the local drug made from the roots of a native plant. The entire village lined up to shake his hand, and we then feasted on all sorts of good food that the women of the village had been preparing for days. Elder Arthur told us stories about Siviri, how the cave with the lake in it had been found, for instance, as we sat in the shade. We also learned that the original buried stone had been lost somewhere, forgotten since the last installation ceremony for Arthur, so Peter had to go choose another one from the stream bed and it had been carted over in a truck the day before and buried in the center of the village. The other pigs were then carried down to the sea and killed on the beach, and chunks of their meat were added to piles of gifts for all the important visitors from the surrounding villages. We look forward to visiting Siviri again and sharing copies of the photos we took.

I spent last week in Vila, taking part in a Presbyterian Church forum on the future of education here in Vanuatu. We discussed formal education, such as we do here at Onesua, vocational training, which is carried out at rural training centers, and theological training, which prepares Ni-Vanuatu pastors professionally. We brainstormed lots of ideas, and created a draft set of recommendations that will be argued about and prioritized over the next several months and then will become a development plan for the church. Planning, of couse, is the easy part. Now we have to implement the ideas, and that will take a lot more than a week. I had two particular roles at the forum. The first was to respond to the keynote speaker each day in attempts to stretch the discussion in many different directions. They asked me to do that because, being an outsider, I have a different perspective as well as the bravery to publicly disagree. Amercians are famous for being rude; this is one instance where that cultural trait paid off! My second job was to follow the discussion, which was in Bislama, and summarize the ideas in English on our computer. I found it a challenge to listen to one language and type another, but it is nice to have a complete record of the thinking that went on, not just the official list of recommendations. The Ni-Vanuatu appreciated my contributions, even when they were challenged by what I said. They also got a kick out of correcting my spelling. English here is very British, and I leave the 'u' out of neighbours, for instance. This was the first time that I have functioned for a long period of time as a consultant instead of a teacher, and it was a good feeling to be used to capacity, and maybe a little beyond. I may have stretched the discussion, but the discussion certainly stretched me! I was happy to return home on Friday, after five days away. Lora and the girls say that they had a peaceful time without me and that they now realize where all the noise in the household comes from!

Lora's kindergarten generates funny stories almost every day. Twenty-four students from the age of two to the age of five come from both the neighboring villages, as well as from Onesua staff families, and have a great time. Lora has a "Letter of the Day" and an activity centered around it. It is very funny to see all these cute little kids walking around the campus with ears stapled on headbands (for E day) or with fish made out of paper plates (F day). There are unpredictable challenges, such as B day, when Lora pulled out a drawing she had made of a bat and asked, "What is this?" The students replied, "Flying Fox!" At least they recognized the picture! There are also unexpected joys, such as the discovery that none of the kids had ever seen watercolors before. One boy was worried at first because the color smeared out behind his brush. He thought that he was going to get in trouble for spoiling his paper, so he kept trying to wipe the paint off with the brush. Lora assured him that the paper was where the color belonged, and she got to watch their faces as they explored something new and exciting. Right now the kindergarten is meeting in a classroom at the school, which means that nothing can ever be set up and left out. The kindergarten committee of parents that Lora organized hopes to build a traditional house soon. Interestingly enough, the thatch must be bought from a village down the road, so the committee will have a series of bakesales to raise the money. Then they will build the new kindergarten, providing all other materials from the jungle as well as their own labor.

Please forgive me if I offend some of you, but I would like to share my perspective on the war in Iraq. Things may look different from here. Please feel free to write back if you choose, especially if your views are in conflict with mine. I doubt that we will convince each other of anything, but at least we can be in conversation about an important issue. and maybe we can learn from each other a bit.

I think that the Pacific has a broader view of the United States at war than we do ourselves. They know very well how heroic we can be, since they have not forgotten that it was the United States that saved Vanuatu from slavery in World War II. Our island, Efate, was a major staging ground for U.S. troops before the critical battles of the Coral Sea and Guadalcanal, which stopped the Japanese advance. Vanuatu is one of the great places in the entire world to be an American, and old men like Elder Arthur will often sit and tell me of their memories of the years when U.S. soldiers were here. But the people of the Pacific also remember the years of nuclear testing, when we created refugees simply because we wanted to test bombs outside our own boundaries, and how we failed to evacuate some islanders from fallout areas even when we had evacuated U.S. citizens. The people here remember our contributions with gratitude and our arrogance with dismay.

Friends here enjoy asking me what I think of the war in Iraq, simply to hear me disagree publicly with my own government. That is strange to Ni-Vanuatu, who tend to be respectful of authority, but I see it as promoting democracy.

People who favor military force can point to many desperate times in the past, September 1, 1939, for instance, and ask a pacifist how war might have been avoided. Well, it probably couldn't have been at that point, with Germany rolling into Poland. But a pacifist can point to other, calmer times, such as the end of World War I, when more compassionate interventions might have created a more durable peace. We helped create the conditions that spawned Hitler. More care and less vindictiveness in 1918 might have avoided 1939 altogether.

My point is this: every day, especially today, is a time of desperation somewhere, and violence can always be justified by those who want it. But every day, even today, is a time where the seeds of peace can be planted. War cannot create peace. I think we should have learned that a long time ago, with "The War to End All Wars." It didn't. It can't. It never will. Only if we wage peace with the same energy and valor and commitment that we save for war will we ever have peace, for ourselves or for our neighbors.

We have buried the foundations of our faith well, and it's hard to find them again. We remember that peace and love are at the center somewhere, but we have spent a long time without digging them up and dusting them off. We like to pretend that Jesus talked about just wars and our need for violence. We like to pretend that now, just this once, for this particular justification, he would ride into town on a war horse instead of a donkey. I don't believe that. I don't believe that it's fair to leave Jesus out of the argument, and I don't believe that it's fair to recruit him to our cause.

I hope that the coming weeks give each of us the opportunity to apologize for injustices, to stay connected to the wider world, and to create moments of calm and compassion in our own lives that will lead to peace. I hope we have the courage to implement the vision for the future we all would like to see.

Love and peace,

Bruce

The 2003 Mission Yearbook for Prayer & Study, p. 191

 
             
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For more information contact Peter Kemmerle (888) 728-7228 x5612, Anne Blair (888) 728-7228 x5373, or Bruce Whearty (888) 728-7228 x5628 - Or write to: 100 Witherspoon Street, Louisville, KY, 40202

 
     
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